Why does idle climb after I clean the throttle body?

Common — the ECM had compensated for the carbon. After cleaning, you need to perform a throttle relearn so the ECM resets to the now-clean position.

What's the difference between P0507 and P0506?

P0507 = idle too HIGH. P0506 = idle too LOW. They have entirely different causes — don't confuse them.

Will an idle relearn fix P0507 on its own?

Only if the underlying issue (TPS drift, software glitch) was the cause. If there's a real vacuum leak, the code returns within days.

Could a sticking throttle cable cause this?

On older non-drive-by-wire vehicles yes, but modern Chargers (2006+) are all drive-by-wire — no cable to stick.

P0507

Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected

LOW

SystemIdle / Throttle

Difficulty

Cost$0–$300

Read7 min

What It Means Symptoms Common Causes Diagnosis Steps How to Fix It Emissions Test?Repair Cost FAQs

By Mike Reeves

ASE Master Technician (L1 Advanced Engine Performance) · 18 yrs

Technically reviewed by Sara Lopez

Last updated June 11, 2026

What Does P0507 Mean?

P0507 means the engine's idle speed is consistently higher than the ECM's target (typically by 200 RPM or more for a sustained period). On modern drive-by-wire systems, the ECM controls idle by adjusting the throttle plate; if idle is too high, unmetered air is entering somewhere or the throttle plate isn't closing fully.

On a Dodge Charger with the 5.7 HEMI or 3.6 Pentastar V6, P0507 is almost always a vacuum leak (PCV, intake manifold gasket, brake booster hose) or a carbon-coated throttle body. The fix is usually under $30 in parts and an hour of labor.

Symptoms

Idle higher than normal (1000+ RPM warm)

Spec is 600–750 RPM in park warm.

Surging or hunting idle

RPM bounces 50–200 RPM at a stop.

Check engine light

P0507 alone — no driveability issue beyond idle.

Reduced fuel economy in city driving

High idle = more fuel burned at every stop.

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Common Causes

1.Vacuum leak (intake, PCV, booster hose)
50%
Most common cause across all platforms. Smoke-test to find.
2.Dirty / carboned throttle body
30%
Carbon buildup on throttle plate prevents full close. Cleanable.
3.Failed PCV valve stuck open
10%
Acts as a continuous vacuum leak.
4.Throttle position sensor / drift
7%
TPS reads slightly wrong, throttle relearn needed.
5.Bad ECT sensor (engine reads cold)
3%
ECM commands high idle thinking engine is cold.

Step-by-Step Diagnosis

Verify idle RPM with scan tool

Don't trust the dash tach. Hook up a scanner and read 'Engine RPM' and 'Target Idle RPM' live. Difference >200 RPM at warm idle confirms P0507.

IDLE (warm, in Park):
  Engine RPM   : 1180
  Target RPM   :  680
  TPS          : 0.4%
  → 500 RPM over target — vacuum leak likely

Listen and visually inspect for vacuum leaks

Engine running, ear close to the intake. A hiss = a leak. Check PCV hose, brake booster line, intake manifold gasket, and any vacuum lines.

Pro TipSpray carb cleaner (briefly!) around suspect joints. If RPM changes when sprayed on a spot, that's your leak.

Clean the throttle body

Remove the intake tube. Use throttle body cleaner (NOT carb cleaner — it'll damage the coating) and a soft brush. Hold the throttle plate open and clean both sides thoroughly.

WarningNever use brake cleaner or carb cleaner on a drive-by-wire throttle body. The coating on the plate is delicate.

Perform a throttle relearn

After cleaning, key on engine off for 60 seconds, then start without touching the gas. Many scanners can also force an idle relearn — refer to your scanner's manual.

Test the PCV valve

Pull the PCV valve from the valve cover. Shake it — you should hear the spring-loaded plunger rattle. Stuck open = no rattle, replace it ($8 part).

How to Fix It

DifficultyTime 2–3 hrs

Parts needed:

CRC Throttle Body Cleaner (12 oz) — approx $9
Mopar OEM PCV Valve (HEMI) — approx $14
Intake Manifold Gasket Set — approx $38
Mopar Brake Booster Vacuum Hose — approx $22

Procedure:

Warm engine then shut off. Let cool 10 minutes.
Remove intake tube from throttle body.
Spray throttle body cleaner on a clean rag.
Wipe throttle plate (both sides) and bore thoroughly.
Inspect and replace PCV valve if it doesn't rattle.
Reinstall intake tube, ensure all clamps tight.
Key on 60 sec, then start without touching throttle.
Idle 5 minutes for relearn; drive 10 miles mixed.

Will It Pass Emissions?

// DECISION TREE

STARTCheck engine light on?

YES →FAIL

NO →Readiness monitors set?

YES →PASS

NO →RETESTdrive 50–100 miles to set monitors

Repair Cost Breakdown

Part / Region	DIY Cost	Shop Labor	Total Range
Most regions (DIY clean fix)	$15	$140	$15–$180
Vacuum repair (shop)	$30	$220	$140–$300
Worst-case (manifold gasket)	$80	$480	$400–$650

Estimates based on aggregated independent shop quotes; dealer labor adds 30–50%. Excludes diagnostic fee ($80–$150).

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FAQs

Yes, indefinitely — it doesn't risk damage. But the higher idle wastes fuel and indicates an underlying air leak that may get worse.

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Sources & References

§SAE J2012 — Diagnostic Trouble Code Definitions — Standardized OBD-II code definitions used by all manufacturers.
§EPA OBD Regulations (40 CFR §86.1806-05) — Federal on-board diagnostic requirements for light-duty vehicles.

Cost figures are aggregated from real customer invoices at our shop plus quotes from RepairPal and Mitchell1 labor guides. Diagnostic procedures verified against factory service information (ALLDATA / Mitchell1).

// About the author

Mike Reeves — Independent shop owner in Phoenix, AZ. Specializes in driveability diagnostics on domestic and Asian gas engines. Writes our powertrain coverage. More about our team →

Related Codes

P0420MODERATE